Mera Peak Climb

Traveler Reviews

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  Christopher

  December 8th, 2012
  A great experience and challenge which ultimately peaked at the summit of 6,500mtrs with its breath taking views...
  A great experience and challenge which ultimately peaked at the summit of 6,500mtrs with its breath taking views What was the most inspirational moment of your trip? Being with a friendly group of like minded trekkers. Succeeding in reaching my goal and being challenged to my upmost. What did you think of your group leader? The Sherpas Jambo and Karje were friendly professional and excellent group leaders Do you have any advice for potential travellers? You wont regret the experience and if you have the opportunity to do the trek then go for it Is there anything else you would like to add? it was very cold at night. I would hire the exodus sleeping bag. get some proper high mountain glovesShow more
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  James

  November 13th, 2011
  A memorable trek, well organised and with excellent company. Not for the faint hearted but the view from the summit...
  A memorable trek, well organised and with excellent company. Not for the faint hearted but the view from the summit made it worthwhile. What was the most inspirational moment of your trip? Kaji Sherpa, a 4 time Everest summiteer, provided plenty of inspiration for all.Reaching the summit of Mera Peak on a bitterly cold but cloudless morning with a stunning view of 5No. 8,000m+ summits and dozens of equally impressive lesser peaks main the exertions of the previous hours and days worthwhile What did you think of your group leader? Ngima was a highly competent leader. Very knowledgable on Nepal in general and the Mera / Everest area in particular he communicated well with the group as a whole and on an individual basis. Team briefings were clear and informative and any issue which arose, including a day lost due to rain and a case of frostbite, were addressed in a calm and professional fashion.Worth noting that Ngima was not a one man band. Other guides Kaji, Lakpa, Ngima, Mingma and Kami and cook Ran and his kitchen team provided invaluable back-up and assistance to the group. Do you have any advice for potential travellers? Not a trek for first timer's. Most of our group had previous experience of several elements => Nepal, at high altitude, in extreme cold and on snow and ice. This was reflected in the success rate - 12 of 14 made the highest camp at 5,800m and 9 made the summit at 6,476m.Hire Equipment: I took my own plastic boots and ice axe, hiring a harness and technical gear which were good quality in Kathmandu. Others hired plastic boots and ice axe locally, the quality was variable at best. Hiring boots is achievable but needs care => recommend take your own.Essential Equipment: Plastic boots, good gloves and a good sleeping bag are essential on this trek above 5,000m. Scarpa Omega Thermo boots, Mountain Equipment Fitzroy mitts and a Rab Ladakh 1000 sleeping bag all performed very well in extreme cold and wind. Is there anything else you would like to add? Food: No issues. Hot, filling and plentiful. Kitchen crew did well do provide good food in the middle of nowhere. Expect a bit of repetition though. Snacks can be bought up to Khare at 5,000m and are essential on summit day at least on the way up.Luggage Limits: Trips notes indicate 20Kg but current carrier allows 32Kg in economy - Check before you go. Not all required but an extra 2 or 3 Kg's allows you to pack plastic boots and ice axe without leaving something else.When to go: September departure is at the end of the monsoon - make sure of waterproofs. Early days were wet but too warm for goretex jacket to be effective, an umbrella is invaluable as is a dry sack with dry shirt / shorts.What to Take: Plastic Boots v clothes? Trekking clothes, jackets, dry sacks etc. are widely available and a good price in Kathmandu => If its a choice, take your own plastic boots.Show more
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  Brian

  November 9th, 2011
  Potential for a trip of a lifetime but failed to deliver.trip made harder due to suffering a knee injury for the...
  Potential for a trip of a lifetime but failed to deliver.trip made harder due to suffering a knee injury for the entire trip - temporarily alleviated by taking 400mg of Ibuprofen. Food was also disappointing - i don't expect ringed out fine dining, but vegetables don't need to have their nutritional properties boiled out of them. I have done trips like this before but this was most disappointing What was the most inspirational moment of your trip? 1. flight to Lukla 2. walking up the Mera La & seeing Makalu, Kanchenjunga, Cho Oyu & most notably Everest 3. coming down the Zataware La was awesome What did you think of your group leader? I got the impression that group leader Ngima was more concerned about his tip at the end rather than the welfare of the whole group, this was evident when one of the group was struggling with a trapped nerve & had no sleep & Ngima had to be reminded by one of the group that this person was being neglected by the group leader, I found this attitude quite unprofessional as disappointing.I also hired a pair of crampons from a shop recommended by the head guide Ngima - these crampons came off 15 times (yes i counted) this seriously compromised my safety as the Mera La is littered with crevasses & there are also steep ridges to negotiateNgima made a serious mistake on the route backThe group had to traverse a very narrow ridge 6-12 inches wide & about 2 hours+ long - the drop to our left was 500-1000 metres down & we had to traverse this ridge in hiking boots when Mountain or plastic boots would have been more suitable. This ridge is extremely dangerous & should not be negotiated without appropriate footwear & even crampons. i believe this was a serious error of judgement by Ngima & believe he should be trained further.this affected the tip i gave him on the last day & gave him what i think he deserved - nothing Do you have any advice for potential travellers? Take your own crampons - do not hire them out there as once you get to Lukla & eventually above the snowline there's no turning back.The ridge i mentioned above is not mentioned in the trip notes but be warned there's no other way of getting back - this ridge comes the day before the Zataware Lapay the extra £5.00 on your hotel room when you get back to Lukla - this gets you an En suite shower with hot water, very welcome after 3 weeks on a very cold mountain Is there anything else you would like to add? if you are thinking of booking this trip then call exodus & bolt on Island Peak for a relatively small payment extra - if you can handle the altitude of Mera then Island Peak is a bigger challenge (technically)Mera Peak is a tough trek & gives you an insight into basic technical mountaineering - it does have rewards of stunning views - for me Kilimanjaro & the Volcanoes of Ecuador were far more rewardingShow more
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  Ken

  October 27th, 2011
  Wonderful country, people and fellow travellers. Nima, our leader, was always attentive and ready to help each member...
  Wonderful country, people and fellow travellers. Nima, our leader, was always attentive and ready to help each member of the group. The rest of the climbing Sherpas were excellent as well. What was the most inspirational moment of your trip? Seeing the Sherpa porters carrying huge loads with a laugh and a smile. Reaching the summit of Mera Peak with enough breath to enjoy it. What did you think of your group leader? Excellent. Do you have any advice for potential travellers? Bring your own climbing gear and plastic boots if possible. The quality of the gear we hired in Kathmandu was dreadful. Is there anything else you would like to add? The food was first class and no one got ill!Show more
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  Angus

  May 14th, 2011
  This was hard work, but not unexpectedly so. We were hindered slightly by the weather and the guides on another (not...
  This was hard work, but not unexpectedly so. We were hindered slightly by the weather and the guides on another (not Exodus) group, the combination of which meant we failed to summit by c.90m. Our guides and porters were excellent. I set out to get over 6,000m, which I did, but it was disappointing not to summit. Overall, a great experience, with a good bunch of people and solid support from Exodus. What was the most inspirational moment of your trip? Seeing Everest. I've read all the books about climbing on Everest, so to see it 'in the flesh' meant a lot to me.Being scared of heights, I felt pretty good with myself when I succeeded in 'conquering' c.500m of path which (no joking) was 25cm wide with a drop to the left so big we couldn't see the bottom. One slip and certain death would follow. I didn't enjoy that one bit, but with a bit of teeth-gritting and blasphemy I lived to tell the tale. What did you think of your group leader? Ngema was only 29 but inspired confidence virtually the whole time. He was always friendly and helpful. On summit day, he over-ruled the much older lead guide of another group to the benefit of both groups - unfortunately, the many delays brought on by indecision of the other guide meant Ngema had to (correctly)call time on the summit bid with just 90m to go. Do you have any advice for potential travellers? Pick your trek company carefully! The incompetence of the (Australian) lead guide of another group illustrated the importance of local knowledge and experience.The day-to-day walking is tough, particularly when getting over 4,000m, and there were some hairy moments with maximum concentration required to stave off near certain death when on narrow paths with steep drop offs.Show more
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  Emma

  April 26th, 2011
  A great trip, despite the unseasonable weather - rain or snow almost every day- and no-one summitting (due to the...
  A great trip, despite the unseasonable weather - rain or snow almost every day- and no-one summitting (due to the weather). The trip is about the journey and some of the views and sights were just awesome. Hard (and they mean hard) but worth it. What was the most inspirational moment of your trip? A few: sunrises (when we had good weather), walking on the Mera glacier and the views back over the Himalaya, the clear views of Mera from Kote. The way the group worked together to get over the Zatra La in pretty unpleasant weather. The bravery through pain exhibited by one member of our group, who sadly had to leave the trip halfway through. The incredible scenery and even more incredible porters. Bhim's cakes. And of course (and not least) the great impromptu New Year's Eve party at the lodge in Lukla, with some truly inspirational dancing from some members of our party and our guides!!! What did you think of your group leader? Ngima was a good leader, and clearly very experienced: we enjoyed his company and the story of how he came to be an Exodus leader is really impressive. The real star of the trip though was Big Mingma who paced his leading very well and really engendered confidence in the group: I always felt that he was aware of what was happening in the group/who was struggling and needed some help. Ngima, Big Mingma and Lakpa Cheten's card playing skills were pretty good too!One criticism, however, would be that not enough care was taken to factor in the changes in weather conditions and the effect it was likely to have on the trail. This led to a few hair-raising moments, which could have been avoided with a bit of extra thought. However, overall, the trip was well organised. Do you have any advice for potential travellers? Exodus' trip notes are pretty good. However:It is seriously worth considering taking microspikes (such as the ones Kahtoola make) for some of the walk-in days, as well as crampons (which you will not have with you at all times), especially if, like me, you are prone to a tumble: a few of the descents would have been much easier with them. I hadn't taken mine and have the bruises to prove it! Poles are an essential for this trip.Also, seriously consider bringing crampons from home. I did but those that hired them really struggled as the hired crampons did not have anti-balling plates, which meant that they were near-useless/positively unhelpful in soft snow. Is there anything else you would like to add? If you are going to sign up for this trip, you really do need to have walked at altitude before, for a reasonable period. It is hard-going, cold and exhausting. However, you are rewarded by some amazing views and experiences and that is what you remember once the memories of the pain dim. Also, don't be put off signing up if you are female - you are likely to be in the minority (9 to 2 on our trip) but it isn't all crazy macho men - or you haven't got much (or any) experience with the equipment. I did a winter skills course at Plas y Brenin before I went and this really helped with the basics like how to get crampons that fit your boots, how to put them on, how to hold an ice axe/self-arrest (in theory anyway) and to feel a bit more confident. Show more
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  Gee

  January 11th, 2011
  Food was challenging on the trek, on the plus side, it's a great natural way of losing weight. The trek itself is...
  Food was challenging on the trek, on the plus side, it's a great natural way of losing weight. The trek itself is second to none - challenging in all aspects (mental & physical). What was the most inspirational moment of your trip? Getting to the top of Mera Peak & meeting Kaji Sherpa (who has summitted Mt. Everest 4 times). What did you think of your group leader? Unquestionably 1st class. Nice to see such great rapport & team spirit with the rest of the crew. Do you have any advice for potential travellers? Don't get sick before the trek begins (as in e.g. drink hotel jug water in Kathmandu) and during the trek - this trek takes no prisoners, absolutely no chance! Only the non-sick will potentialy last to the end. Would definitely recommend this trip but go early in the season if you want it quieter with less other trekkers around, else it get choc-o-block. Is there anything else you would like to add? Offer more challenging higher altitude treks in your portfolio. You already have two, potentially three Mt. Everest summitteers for climbing guides, why not offer a Mt. Everest climb to the very top & only the very top ? Anything else (e.g. lower camps) but the very top defeats the object.Maximum number of 14 on the trek was a bit too crowded - one of the main reasons for going on treks like is the peace & serenity of the Himalayas & the feel of isolation, but with 14 people it was impossible to enjoy any peaceful moment. For me, the maximum number of 9 is ideal to begin with & expect the number to drop by 2 or 3 at the end.Show more
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  David

  November 14th, 2010
  An absolute thrill to make the summit of Mera Peak in the company of a great group of Sherpas. My third trekking...
  An absolute thrill to make the summit of Mera Peak in the company of a great group of Sherpas. My third trekking trip to Nepal, the best yet and looking forward to my fourth. What was the most inspirational moment of your trip? Fourteen of us set out on the trip and nine of us made the summit, and at 62 I was overjoyed to be one of them. We were on the summit at 8 am under a clear blue sky and the wind whipping the ice crystals off the top in a mini blizzard into our faces and a single view of 6 of the 8 highest mountains in the world - truly spectacular. I had never used any climbing equipment before and the abseil/jumar training en route paid dividends on summit day - I loved my three days on the glaciers and snow fields but making the summit was my highlight. What did you think of your group leader? Ngima Lama is everything that great tour leader needs to be - extrovert, personable, informative, sharing, industrious, well respected and genuinely liked by the large team of 60 he lead on this expedition. His knowledge of First Aid and its application was impressive - both for his team and clients. Not afraid to make tough decisions. A real professional and an incredibly likeable young man. Do you have any advice for potential travellers? Read Exodus notes - at Grade E, there are no easy days on this trek, apart from the final day back to Lukla. Your chances of success will be much greater if you have a BMI of not much more than 25. Everyone loses weight on the trip - 5 to 10% of body weight. It is less about being super fit and more about having real depths of stamina. The air is dry and bad coughs and chest infections are common - take an antibiotic (like amoxycillan which you can get in Kathmandu without prescription) and loads of Strepsils; and a load of sweets to suck.I have been at altitude several times and this was the first time I suffered a totally sleepless night - I had three of them, two on consecutive nights. We met a very fit Canadian who was forced back when he suffered four consecutive nights without any sleep, absolutely shattered. Sleeping tablets are not an option - they make you ill at altitude - avoid caffeine 6 hours before sleep and most importantly before you go, read up on "non medicine taking" measures to help you sleep. Is there anything else you would like to add? Thanks to Ngima and team and the other 13 people who made up the group - a great holiday, one of the best. A real challenge - Aconcagua beckons! Show more
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  Garth

  November 10th, 2008
  An absolutely brilliant trip. Where else can you see five of the worlds highest peaks at one go! A tough one that...
  An absolutely brilliant trip. Where else can you see five of the worlds highest peaks at one go! A tough one that earns its grade but well worth the effort. If you want to go high and non-technical Mera Peak is for you! What was the most inspirational moment of your trip? It has to be summit day. We were woken at 1a.m. with tea and porridge. After the effort of putting on boots and crampons we set off for the summit. It was a tad cold but we were all well muffled up. Naturally it was slow going with many a stop to catch our breaths. Dawn came slowly but was quite spectacular with the sun gradually striking the tops of more and more peaks starting with Kangchenjunga far to the east. Gradually as we got higher and the light improved we saw Cho Oyu, the Nuptse Lhotse ridge, Everest and Makalu!! Even saw base camp way, way below us. Reaching a small col we realised that we only had about 30m more up to go. We had been roped to this point anyway but it became essential for this last bit as it was very steep. Up to the top of Mera and handshakes and hugs all round. Views were astounding all round!! Then it was a long slog all the way to base camp passing High and Mera La camps. What did you think of your group leader? Krishna was an excellent leader in all respects. Knowledgable, capable and above all friendly. He is about to complete his International Climbing course early next year. He is a member of the Nepal guide Association. While on the subject of crew we cannot praise them highly enough from the porters through to guides. Two of the Climbing Guides had summited Everest twice so we felt in good hands. Food was excellent and plentiful as we knew it would be having been with Bhim in Tibet. Do you have any advice for potential travellers? This is a tough trip and should not be undertaken by anyone who is not a regular hill walker. The circular approach walk as opposed to the direct trail was great for acclimatisation - I felt as well or better than any other high altitude trips that I have been on. As is normal on these trips Kris and I were the slowest and always at the back though we always arrived at lunch stops and camp on time. Being slow should not put anyone off this trip - you will see more and have a better chance to acclimatise. apart from which, on climb day, you are all as slow as each other! Is there anything else you would like to add? I think that I have said it all. Expect some hard days especially the climb and on the walk out over the Zatrwa La. The walk in was tough with plenty of steep ups and downs - in fact it would be of interest if anyone could tell us the total ascent and descent. We had rain and cloud on the walk in due to a late monsoon but it was still brilliant and quite spooky. Be prepared for spectacular camps at the Mera La and High camps and to be cosy, but warm, with three in a tent. Be amazed on climb day - it is stupendous, unbelievable, mind blowing and any other superlatives that you can think of.Show more
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  Mark

  November 3rd, 2008
  A tough but very rewarding climb through various landscapes, very well organised with excellent food, guides, kitchen...
  A tough but very rewarding climb through various landscapes, very well organised with excellent food, guides, kitchen staff and porters. What was the most inspirational moment of your trip? Clambering the last few metes to the top of Mera Central and getting great views of Everest and surrounding mountains. Also, lying in bed at night listening to avalanches, and getting to see a large avalanche fall off Mera whilst eating breakfast. What did you think of your group leader? Krishna was great, always cheerful and very friendly. The other guides were good too, Wanchu was our guide on summit day and he had summited Everest twice, so we were in good hands. Do you have any advice for potential travellers? You do NOT climb to 6476m as advertised, that it Mera North, the route to which is heavily crevassed. On this trip you climb Mera Central 6461m, Exodus really need to amend their trip notes, so although I reached the objective of this trip I did not climb to the top of Mera Peak!Watch out for the leeches in the lower camps.FYI the crew set up 2 toilet tents at most camps, they are great, there is a chair inside with a loo seat, so no squatting!!!You can pay a couple of dollars to use showers at nearby lodges at some campsites, plus the bowls of hot water supplied by the staff mean you can keep quite clean.Don't waste your money on iodine stuff, the guides boil water and fill your bottles at breakfast, lunch and dinner, so you can get as much safe water as you can drink.Your plastic boots, ice axe and crampons are separated out in Kathmandu and sent ahead, so you don't have to carry them around, this also gives you more room in your kit bag. Is there anything else you would like to add? As mentioned by someone else, this is a long-old-trek, with lots and lots of ups and downs, you will ascend and descend over 10,000 metres of the course of the trip, so be prepared. The summit day is a 12 hour walking day, 6 hours up starting at 2am, and six hours down to a lower camp, so make sure your plastic boots are comfy.Oh, and don't take any electronics with hard-drives in them. My hard-drive mp3 player and hard-drive camcorder stopped working at about 5000m because they don't operate in low pressure environments (they worked again lower down), so watch out.Show more